Vinh Ha Long - Bay of the Descending Dragon

Shamefully, I had not heard of Halong Bay until a close friend of mine Shereen came back from there a year or two back. And after seeing some photos, I had put Halong Bay way high up in my Next Destination list.

After a failed attempt in end of 2007, we finally managed to organize this trip to Hanoi and Halong Bay. King's children had no idea where we were going, and it was one of this thrilling "Undisclosed Destination" that this great papa had planned.

If you ever go to Hanoi and wanted to see Halong Bay, a day trip is NOT the way to do it. Spending at least one night on those junk boats is a MUST! We booked Santa Maria direct from Columbus back in August, however in September a couple of weeks before our trip, we were informed of the change of management and Santa Maria was no longer on sail, they put us on Pinta Cruiser instead. Anyway, Pinta was fine.

The van came to pick us up from our Hanoi hotel at 8:45am. There was no guide on the van! Only one of the managers from Columbus, but he came off the van before we left Hanoi. So the three hours plus journey to Halong harbour was guide-less, but it was ok.

We arrived at the jetty, there were massive crowds! And I think that was the first time I realised the number of those Oriental junk boats there - so many!!! We waited for a good 10 -15 minutes before our guide finally showed up. She was saying goodbye to her guests, seeing them off onto the same van who took us there. Now we understood why we had no guide from Hanoi - because she was still at the bay! Anyway, our guide's name was Miss Moon.

She led us into Pinta Cruiser. Immediately we were served with chilled Mango lassi. Apart from the six of us, there were another American man with his Chinese girlfriend, and the girl's mom. We checked into the rooms, all of us were excited about the sun deck! Spectacular views even before the boat left the jetty.

As the boat set sail, lunch was served. We had special request as we had one vegetarian, and three seafood only. So, our lunch menu was totally elobrated - I think Florence and I had all the meat - beef, pork & chicken. The juniors got fish, squids & prawns while Alistair got his fair share of toufu and mock meats. ;)

Thousands of limestone islets and mountains could be seen then as we sailed further. The view was spectacular, absolutely breathtaking! Eventhough it was a bit misty for it was Autumn. We were told to come in Summer if we were to revisit. So, do take note of that.

First stop was Hang Sun Sot - the Surprising Caves. Lots of climbing, ok ... not that hard, only uneven steps. But hey, what do you expect? Elavator? :p It was a good exercise as well as seeing those strange and sometimes vulgarly funny rock formations.

When we got back into the boat, we were served the chilled lassi again - but this time Papaya! Not everyone's favourite but I loved it. But I would really prefer more plain water. Then the boat sailed on ... Cameras were getting busy with people (me included) trying to freeze those beautiful scenaries into pixels. And not forgetting some camwhoring time, like who wouldn't??

It must have been about 4 or 5pm when the boat docked at one of the sheltered bay - for the night! It was exciting - as it was time to swim! It wasn't crystal clear water, but all you saw was green. All five of us (except Florence) jumped into the water and had so much fun. The thought of swimming into jelly fish clearly did not deter us. And we did see some floating about, after we came out from the water.

We smuggled our Martini onto the sundeck! It was picth black. We just enjoyed the tranquility and the faint light from other boats far away, and the ghostly reflections of the limestone islets ... Alistair said it felt sinister. Strangely I did not feel so at all. But I suppose in open water like this, the threat of pirates could be very real. Therefore, there was a floating police station within 100m where we docked. Apparently these guys were on alert the whole time especially during the night. Slightest noise would trigger the dogs barking, and they would dash out and shine their torches around the picth black water. So, we should feel safe.

Anyway, our dinner was another elobrate affair! The variety of food was good and very thoughtful. I could even say that the presentation of some dishes were first class. The prawn cocktails were decorated with flowers made of garlic, carrots ... At one point, they even switch off all lights so the spring rolls which were stuck on a pineapple cage lattern made its entrance onto our dining table! They really did have a great chef - food was good. Dinner variety was good, but the quantity was just too much!!! I think almost all 3 tables could not finish all the food.

People retreated back in their room right after dinner. I was thinking perhaps the guide could have done more to interact. Anyway, I chatted with the American guy, Bob as we both had Nikon cameras. And Bob was actually quite a nice chap after speaking to him, contrary to what we perceived earlier. :)

The next morning, Alistair & Rachel were up early to see sunrise but I doubt it was a spectacular one - it was misty. The boat set sail again while we're having breakfast. And then it was time to kayak! We had the choice between kayakking around the fishing village nearby or kayakking through caves! Hmmm.... it's not even like a Detour in the Amazing Race. Naturally, everyone chose caves! Kayakking is fun IF both you and your partner knew what you were doing. I think that was my problem. David & I didn't seem to have the chemistry or the ability to communicate, either that one of us have a stronger left hand -- our kayak kept going right! It was frustrating as we were trailing behind but come to think of it now, it was hilarious and fun. :)

After another good session of kayakking, we were back in the boat and now getting ready to wash up and check out. Then as the boat pulled away from the bay heading to the land, lunch was served timely. If there was one thing you had to remember about the Pinta Cruiser - it was their food!!!

About mid-day, we were back on the jetty. And it was time to go back to Hanoi - yes, the 3 hours plus ride. Nevertheless, we got held back for at least a full hour because there was an accident. And that was the time we realised how things were so different in Vietnam.

Basically, a truck loaded with coal overturned causing the left lane inaccessible. It must have just happened a few minutes but the grid lock was almost instant and it built up all because of everyone was watching, and no one was helping, and people jumping queue causing traffic to a complete stand still! It was crazy. So that added one more hour to our journey back to Hanoi.

Verdict, you will not want to miss Halong Bay if you ever come to Hanoi. :)